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servicing a sgt-250

 
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71chevyvan



Joined: 29 May 2004
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 2:17 pm    Post subject: servicing a sgt-250 Reply with quote

gentlemen
i need to troubleshoot an intermittent problem. is there a service position with these players that will allow
extending boards while a disc is playing for servicing?
i doubt placing the machine in any position other than its normal
up position would work.
barry
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blindfury420



Joined: 26 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can swing board out and have it to the side kinda like this


but I have never had to do it with an f/g player so not sure if it will work. Even though I just replaced an audio demod on an sgt-100. Although i did rotate it so it should be able to swing out but you will have to figure out what to set the player on as I am not sure if bottom will go on with board swung out on f/g players.

If I remember correctly most voltages are tested in dc in the LOAD position so it can be tested while upside down with no disc in. Unless the manual states another position ya know! Are you testing voltages? Sorry, I'm just curious, as I never had to mess with boards unless doing that and replacing ic's and the sort.
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Rixrex



Joined: 28 May 2004
Posts: 1222

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can do it with the player upright, just extend the boards to the right side in a "wiper blade" fashion and sit them on some sort of non-conductive material. I Usually set some coffee cups to the right of the player and have a non-conductive board on top of them to rest the circuitry on.

Then the player will still play. Don't touch the circuitry so that you cross connect any of them to one another.


Last edited by Rixrex on Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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71chevyvan



Joined: 29 May 2004
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:44 am    Post subject: sgt 250 Reply with quote

gents
i recall servicing the early magnavox laser machines. they were propped on a fixture allowing boards to dangle for service. i was hoping these CED machines were serviced in a similar way.
so here's the deal. after months of procrastinating i've decided to tackle
the intermittent diathermy in the pict. hitting the chassis makes it come and go.
the stylus was checked and cleaned by CEDatum so thats not the prob.
barry
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blindfury420



Joined: 26 Jan 2011
Posts: 1036

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a weak solder point. You can poke board with a rubber pencil eraser to flex it a little bit and if video gets bad or better you are near the weak solder joint! Find it and re solder! Another way that sounds weird but has worked numerous times, is to leave the player plugged in on load mode for 24 hours. It gets just hot enough to sorta reflow solder joints and has fixed a few of mine that way when I couldn't find the weak spot! I actually had a 250 with that problem but 24 hr load fixed it.
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71chevyvan



Joined: 29 May 2004
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="blindfury420"]Sounds like a weak solder point. You can poke board with a rubber pencil eraser to flex it a little bit and if video gets bad or better you are near the weak solder joint! Find it and re solder![/quote]

absolutely right. but it must be playing a ced to see the diathermy on the screen and the boards are underneath.
and with no disc playing, you see no problem.
i was hoping with its linear tracking it would be able to play on its side.
i doubt that would be a good idea.

seems like propping it up in the corners facing up, then using a mirror while tapping is the way to go.
barry
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SelectaVision420



Joined: 25 Mar 2012
Posts: 1424
Location: Hartford

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am so glad there are still people who know more than basic stuff about these machines, cus otheriwse i dont know what id do if my player broke something besides a belt
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SelectaVision420



Joined: 25 Mar 2012
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Location: Hartford

PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im trying to service the belts on my 250, how can i get this black gear off without breaking it? there doesnt seem to be any other way to get the belt off?



also, what are some good lube points on the 250's?
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SelectaVision420



Joined: 25 Mar 2012
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Location: Hartford

PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay never mind, i got it changed, but i noticed when i am done with the disc and i want to reject the disc, i noticed the caddy pushed the stylus tracking arm back instead of it self retracting, thats not right is it?

heres the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hujaoiQpyhU&feature=youtu.be
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blindfury420



Joined: 26 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Video is still processing, but on all f/g models the caddy does push the stylus arm back into start position.
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ketonic_dude



Joined: 20 Jul 2012
Posts: 547
Location: Mankato, MN

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello all, I am also changing out belts in my SGt-250, I got the loading belt replaced thanks to Tony's question, even still it took me almost an hour. Then when I was attempting to change the servo belt this little metal horseshoe looking thing fell out somewhere around the servo belt, not sure where or what it's for, anyone know? Where/how do I put it back? Thanks.

http://s1112.photobucket.com/albums/k483/ketonic_dude/?action=view¤t=17733F1D-B5AE-48FB-B577-A1F923C885A5-10412-0000125396D8D4A1.jpg&evt=user_media_share
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blindfury420



Joined: 26 Jan 2011
Posts: 1036

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are two of those on the worm gear that touches the servo belt gear. It keeps the worm gear in place while moving. If one is gone it will move like a screw and not stay stationary to move the the stylus arm and servo gear. They are little c clamp washers? There is two little grooved spots on the worm gear on the far left of the shaft, right where the gear shaft touches the white plastic mounts.
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ketonic_dude



Joined: 20 Jul 2012
Posts: 547
Location: Mankato, MN

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ryan, are you talking about the cotter pins? Or something else? What is the worm gear? I assume the horizontal gear that looks like a worm? That's not what this is from. Any other ideas?
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blindfury420



Joined: 26 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


Small horizontal circles are of the c clamp washers. The vertical circle is of the worm gear.

Those are the only things that look like that in the servo motor mount. It came from something in there especially if you took servo belt out. I hope you can match it in the picture Sad
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blindfury420



Joined: 26 Jan 2011
Posts: 1036

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It actually looks like the top left clamp and the is the servo gear that connects to the worm gear.
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Hitachi VIP202P
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SelectaVision420



Joined: 25 Mar 2012
Posts: 1424
Location: Hartford

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

blindfury420 wrote:
Video is still processing, but on all f/g models the caddy does push the stylus arm back into start position.


ok cool! so i dont have to rewind it back to zero then press load? i thought it was broken, it seemed weird that the caddy insertion would also serve as the stylus resetting... thanks!
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SelectaVision420



Joined: 25 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

in the auto/diesel industry we call those little "c" clips jesus clips, cus your gona need jesus to help you find it when it disappears!
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ketonic_dude



Joined: 20 Jul 2012
Posts: 547
Location: Mankato, MN

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I figured out it is that top left one that holds the gear that the servo belt goes on. I got it all put back together but for some reason the belt slides forward as it turns and gets stuck in the gears. Any way to remedy this?
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Rixrex



Joined: 28 May 2004
Posts: 1222

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe you put the belt back on inside out. The belt has a sort of natural curve that matches the large pully, If you get the belt inside out, that curve will be on the outside rather than where it belongs, and the belt may ride off of the curved pulley.
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ketonic_dude



Joined: 20 Jul 2012
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Location: Mankato, MN

PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just cleaned the belt and the plastic gears with rubbing alcohol and let it dry then the belt moved into place and stayed there. I think it had got some grease or something on it from my fingers when I was removing the cotter pins on the worm gear. The player works great now, one little thing though. To replace the loading belt I had to remove the cotter pin on the underside of that black gear. Now I'm not sure why but for some reason when the black gear moves a certain direction it pops up in the air a little bit. In the plastic on the base of the shaft that the gear is on there is a little dimple that the shaft is supposed to rest in but when going a certain direction it lifts out of there a little bit, not enough to disconnect where the gears connect but I'm sure it's not supposed to pop out of that dimple. Anyone ever had that problem? The player still works but I just don't think it's supposed to be like that.
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Rixrex



Joined: 28 May 2004
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never had to remove any type of pin on the black gear. It always just slipped off of the stem with gentle pressure underneath on both sides of the center of the gear. For example, using a long thin needle nose plier with both tip points under the gear near the center hole, and each tip on opposite sides of the hole.

However, I have noticed that they always seem to pop up a little when reversing direction, and it doesn;t seem to effect the operation.
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ketonic_dude



Joined: 20 Jul 2012
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Location: Mankato, MN

PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did try to pull it off but I had just placed a flat head screwdriver under it and levered up but I didn't want to put too much pressure on it and break it. Plus Tony had asked the same thing about how to do it and someone on the Facebook page said you can pop that cotter pin out and the whole gear and shaft will lift right out of there. So I figured I'd go that route, but that pliers trick sounds like it would have worked great. But anyways the player is fully functional so that's all that really matters I guess. It's in mint condition and looks like its never been used before. I got it in its original box with all accessories. I could tell it had never been opened before when I took it apart. I got a great deal on it too, I think including shipping it was around $80. I'm very happy with it.
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Rixrex



Joined: 28 May 2004
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, what I did the first time I took one off, ages ago, was the same as you with the screwdriver, and my Dad stopped me.

He showed my the pliers trick, or said I could use two small screwdrivers the same way. He put a drop of light oil on the stem for penetration, and it came right off woith no damage.
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71chevyvan



Joined: 29 May 2004
Posts: 52

PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="blindfury420"]You can swing board out and have it to the side kinda like this
[img]http://www.cedmagic.com/tech-info/400-fan-install/jk-service-position.jpg[/img]

but I have never had to do it with an f/g player so not sure if it will work. Even though I just replaced an audio demod on an sgt-100. Although i did rotate it so it should be able to swing out but you will have to figure out what to set the player on as I am not sure if bottom will go on with board swung out on f/g players.
[/quote]

thanks. this is a step in the right direction. i'll do it as you describe and with the plasic side if a tool i'll tap around and hopefully get the problem to come and go.
then it'll be soldering time :>)
barry
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