CED VideoDisc and Player Discussion

[Ron Rendfeld]

I have an SJT400 - another ebay "bargain" - that was a real mess when it arrived. John Stevens cleaned, repaired and lubricated it. I've filled and sanded the cigarette burns, scratches and gouges. Now it is time to paint the case but I can't find a good match for the Silver / Aluminum / Gray color used on the top and fasia.

Any suggestions?

Ron in Indianapolis

[mandfmangham]

In reply to the painting o the unit.
I have never repainted a ced player but other plastic appliances
which I have had the automative paint shop do a match and sell
the paint in a spray can I am sure that this service can be aviable
in the us. Painting plastic can be tricky as the solvents can start
eating away at the plastic so a very light rub down with fine sand paper
to make a key for the first coat primer. The primer will let the new paint stick and will not flake off with heat and time, the primer coat should be applied thick enough to cover the light sanding and repairs if not a second primer should be applied, the primer works to cover the scratches etc
and form a consistant surface so that under the light you can't see the scratches etc. If the final color is applied with out a primer the damage will show through the new paint no matter how thick it is applied.
Some people use a flat paint that has no shene but I personally don't
like the flat paint as it will look repainted and the paint will so easily
peel especially at the edges of the unit.

I hope that some of this info has been usefull good luck Ron.

Thanks Mark.

[guest]

I've had a lot of experience painting plastic items, including making a black LD player silver colored to match other components. Generally, the quick dry spray paints will not cause problems with plastic. You can do a match at auto paint supply, but you probably don't need to if you look at the great variety of auto touch up paints available at good auto parts supply stores, and you still might find a good match in regular paint colors. Definitely use primer first, and don't just stop at 1-2 coats. Apply it thinly and use fine steel wool lightly between coats to bring the finish to a smooth state. You will have to clean with alcohol between coats too, NOT thinner. To get the best original-appearing sheen, you probably need either a satin or semi-gloss finish, not high gloss. You can also use a flat finish if your final coat is a clear gloss or semi-gloss paint of the same brand and type. A light finish of this will give it a satin sheen and also some protection from rubbing, but several thin coats does that anyway. You don't need to spend extra for that new Krylon fusion paint, because that is for non-painted smooth plastic surfaces, and yours is not since it has been repaired. Probably a good idea to buy a junk item of plastic to test everything on from a thrift store or use a broken VCR somebody threw out. Better to get practice before painting than to make your main paint job a practice.